First impressions of Uganda
Uganda Blog | 15th January 2008
Our programme coordinator on his first trip to Uganda where he'll be helping the local team set up our new project working with children at risk of social exclusion.
Today marks the beginning of my third week in Pader Town, Northern Uganda. Pader district has been one of the most affected by decades of civil war in Northern Uganda. With the ongoing peace talks and the prospects of signing a final peace deal in February 2008, things are very promising. Pader Town the administrative centre for Pader district is differently beautiful and upcoming. Apparently, it has been chosen as the administrative centre not only because it has nothing to offer but most importantly because it is centrally located between rival towns (Kalong, Lira and Pajule) most of which have electricity, running water, banks etc
On my 10 hour flight from Heathrow to Entebbe the woman sitting beside me struck up a conversation. ‘So how long have you been away and how long are you going home for?’ she asked, ‘well…. I have been away for 31 years and I think six months might be enough to make up for lost times.’ I responded. But before I finished, she was crying her eyes out with laughter. 'How old are you then and when did you leave home?' She managed to ask in between giggles.
So I narrated who I really am. An aid worker (sort of) as I assumed most people will understand that more than ‘a development worker’. That I am African but not from Uganda, that this is my first time in Uganda, that I am working for War Child UK, that I am really excited about the possibilities of our work in Northern Uganda, and that I will be based in Pader for six months. And all of a sudden, her face changed, the laughter is gone and I can now see the signs of disapproval in her face. Why Pader? Who are you going to stay with? What are you going to eat? I hope you have personal security. ‘Ok, slow down’ I wanted to say. But she went on. Make sure you do your shopping in Kampala because Pader is in the ‘bush’ and there is really nothing there. I must confess that I lost my enthusiasm immediately and for the first time I started thinking that may be I made a mistake accepting this opportunity.
At about 0600hrs Ugandan time (0300hrs GMT) we landed at Entebbe International Airport. Ahead of the Commonwealth Heads of Governments Meeting (CHOGM 2007), everything looks beautiful and organised. ‘I wish things will always be like this’. I mumbled. I then joined the queue for Other African States and was sent behind the counter to be interrogated by the Senior Immigration Officer. Here we go again. I thought.
When it comes to the latest immigration debates and stunts, I fit the bill perfectly. I am young, Male, African, Muslim and have two passports stapled together because I need a visa for almost every country I go to apart from the Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS) and interestingly Uganda. So my profile triggers alarms everywhere.
As soon as I mentioned Pader as my final destination to the Chief Immigration Officer, the questions changed from Visas, Drugs, and Weapon smuggling to ‘Why the hell am I going there and not Kampala?’ All the questions from the elegant lady came back and oh boy they kept coming from everywhere – his colleagues in the office, the baggage handlers – everyone just seems to think I am crazy going to Pader.
Two days in Kampala attending meetings with UN representatives and other International NGOs did nothing but confirm what everyone else was saying and the most common advise became – ‘make sure you do all your shopping in Kampala’. And yes that was exactly what I did. I shopped like a fool. Our vehicle was jam-packed with my shopping. I was now convinced that I was going to a terrible place, a place so far and remote that nothing is available. So I drove to Pader expecting and prepared for the worst. It took seven long hours. It could have been five if not for road humps, the newly found invention by road engineers in Uganda. I have never seen so many humps on one stretch of road in my life. I started counting, but lost the rhythm after 50 in less than 5 miles.
Bumping at 70km/h, we approached Pader and in the distance skyline, I can see the most beautiful sunset ever. It was everything I imagined prior to leaving London and those scary conversations. Beautiful country side, no traffic jams, children playing on the streets, and they look so innocent and happy. But behind all that love and happiness is a lost childhood taken away from them by decades of civil war. They look like ‘normal’ children. How dare I say that word ‘normal’ but yes being abducted, enslaved and raped and now a mother at 15, being a former child combatant kidnapped and forced to kill, being a disabled due to lack of access to basic services, being orphaned by war and HIV/AIDS is no ‘normal’ childhood. Things don’t have to be like this. What are you going to do about it? I asked myself.
Ebrima - what a well written and inspiring piece! Please do keep them coming! I hope you you are settling in well; it does sound like the kind of role where you can really make a difference!
It fascinates me how life always finds a way, how despite the war and the daily encounters with death life continuous, how in the midst of ugliness there is always beauty waiting for us to embrace and protect. Thank you for this wonderful piece... It reminds me of my experience at home... Palestine. Keep it up
Fascinating stuff. Really inspiring. Engagingly written. It really brings home the great work War Child does - please keep us as updated as you can. I'm really glad that there are people like you doing this work - it helps to restore some faith in the human race. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback William. Glad you're enjoying the updates. We're trying to keep these as regular as possible (as long as the internet connection is working of course...).
I know it's busy out there, but please keep these blogs up... it's good to hear this stuff.